Видео

Glad to hear you were able to label you light fixture as retrofitted. Yes, it was a blunder on our part to put the sticker on the inside. We do try to address the label location in the video description . . . 🙂

@@Totallightingsupply The different types replacement LEF bulbs are what I see as a problem. I grabbed my fist set that require NO wiring change. Easy, but sill have a ballast using energy. The next two fixtures I got "direct wire" bulbs. More work but can never go back to the old type tubes. So, now I am going back to label everything. They also have bulbs that work with ballast or direct wire. These would be great for when you just want to replace a burned out LED tube and don't know how it was wireed,

Thank you for sharing about LED. LED technology has come a long way and there have been many improvements. One being the color temperature and control of brightness. Thankfully there are much warmer color temp and not as glaring LED lights that mimic the old halogen technology that are much more pleasing to the eye 🙂

Thank you for sharing 🙂

Yes the T-Connector can be used as a power feed to bring power into the track lighting system.

​@@Totallightingsupply thank you for your answer. When you open the t conector i dont see extra cables to connect to.the junction box. How do I do that?

​@@davidjrazeghi3248​where did you purchase your T-Connector? Here is a link to ours showing the internal workings. www.totaltracklighting.com/t-connector-architectural-black-3-wire-h-style-single-circuit.html You can wire directly into the power feed.

Thank you for sharing your troubleshooting process and resolution! This is so helpful 🙂

Please see our page here and navigate to the "I have more than one ballast. Show me more information on Dual Ballast Fluorescent Lights" Hopefully that will help you in your troubleshooting. www.totalbulklighting.com/fast-fluorescent-to-led-t8-conversion-tool.html

Great info! Thank you for sharing!

Glad you found our video helpful!

So glad to hear our video was helpful!

Thank you for sharing your insight into tombstones and LED Walter!

This gripper is designed for lightweight suspension of lights, signs, art, etc . . . Min breaking pounds with 3/64" cable diameter is 122lbs, with a 1/16" cable diameter is 157lbs. Max weight for one 3/64" cable is 25lbs and for one 1/16" cable is 31lbs. Hope this helps 🙂

@@Totallightingsupply thank you for information. Currently i am using grippers purchased from local market of India. Can i have you mail id ?? So i can send photos and videos of my gripper.

Yeah it can be a struggle to get those torsion spring clip brackets installed. Glad our video was helpful in offering an alternative way to install that should make the installation process easier 🙂

Yes, a common problem that many have had 🙂

Thank you for your feedback!

Those are great suggestions for a future video! Thank you for letting us know! This video as you can see is more general in nature but you'd be surprised on how many layouts fall into something similar 🙂

Sorry to hear our video wasn't helpful. Since placement is super subjective, I would recommend lighting up trees, bushes or some object you would like to bring attention to with a spot light as spot lights are more for accenting and can typically be adjusted to tilt up or down. Since there are a variety of spot light beam spreads, some narrow and others more wide, playing around with the light and how it looks on the objects you want lit is a great way to get the look you're after. You can use the techniques in this video to do just that! Hope this helps 🙂

Thank you for the kind words! Sounds like our video was very helpful for you 🙂

Glad our video could help you in your project 🙂

Thank you for sharing! Wire connections will always be the achilles heel in these type of lighting systems 🙂

Also, I wanted to add that earlier this year we recently checked in on one of our customers who had a very large project with every light fixture electrically connected using these blue connectors installed almost 4-years ago now with zero electrical issues. These connectors have been exposed to some of the harshest conditions. Extreme heat in the summer, 100F+, Freezing temps in the winter and a majority of the connectors come in contact with irrigation watering almost daily. Still no issues which we think is remarkable. The ease of use of these blue connectors combined with the moisture resistant gel provides a great and reliable alternative to many of the other types of wire connectors on the market. I also want to note that replacing or moving the light on the run is also an easy process when you know the little tricks which we show in our blue connector videos. Again all wire connections are prone to fail . .. we just think our connectors offer a great balance of ease and reliability to our customers🙂

You're very welcome! Glad our video was helpful 🙂

True true😂

Glad to hear you our video was helpful and you were able to find a resolution 🙂

Thank you for the kind words! Have a blessed day 🙂

It can depending on how your wiring is setup for the non-shunted tombstones. Best thing is to make sure you follow the wiring diagram linked in the video description and if still uncertain we strongly recommend using an electrician. Hope this helps 🙂

We haven't heard of a broken buss bar but I guess anything is possible depending on what forces have been applied to it. Another possibility is that one of the buss bars is shorter then the rest due to either a manufacture defect in the length or thickness of the buss bar, if the track was customized and something happened to the buss bar, track fixture has a defect causing the track to spread slightly more than another fixture, etc . . . The only way to know would be to take the track down and make sure all the buss bars are aligning correctly and are the correct lengths and trying different track fixtures that work in the same location. Hope that helps 🙂

We sell torsion springs here www.totalrecessedlighting.com/recessed-lighting-trim-torsion-spring.html - They can be a little tricky to install but with some patience and determination are well worth it if your springs are not doing their job 🙂

Hello taz! If you can be more specific on which light bulbs you are referring to we can help you out better 🙂

That is a great point! Thank you for your feedback on the 277volt 🙂

Thank you!

Thank you for sharing! That is good to know, ..Most home owners and DIY'ers we have had experience with have those less expensive multi-meters in the $20 - $30 range. As you can see this video was made to help them. Our engineer did make this comment. ...With regards to the meter used to measure the output of electronic transformers, I would also note that not only True RMS, but with a True RMS bandwidth of 100KHz or greater is ideal. Also, we use the AC+DC mode for measuring the output on these. Typically, this mode is only available on certain very high end RMS meters and require a higher skill and experience level than the once in a lifetime use.

These can be tricky. I would look to make sure there are no other clips holding the trim in place.

This video is for LED T8 Dual End powered tubes. You can find our kits here www.totalbulklighting.com/retrofit-kits/ez-t8-led-4-foot-kits.html

We have an online form that helps with 2 ballast fixtures. Please see our form here www.totalbulklighting.com/fast-fluorescent-to-led-t8-conversion-tool.html

As long as you follow the wiring diagram located in the video description that is the key to a successful retrofit 🙂

Glad to hear our video was helpful 🙂

You're very welcome! Have a blessed weekend 🙂

These LED trims are very flexible when it comes to dimming. Here is a link to our 4-inch LED trim modules that lists our dimmers. All our product details can be found on our product pages. www.totalrecessedlighting.com/4-inch-led-selectable-cct-recessed-lighting-retrofit-copper-baffle-trim-27k-30k-35k-40k-50k.html

We carry the linear LED T8 tubes you see in the video. Hope that helps 🙂

These type of fixtures can be a challenge to get bulbs in and out for sure! The trick is lining up the pins of the bulb with the socket holes. Easier said then done. You got this 💪

You're very welcome! Glad to hear our video was helpful for you 🙂

it depends on your T8 LED Bulb. Is it Type-A, Type-B, Type-A+B or Type C. You will need to make sure you are retrofitting your fluorescent light fixture to the correct electrical configuration required by the T8 LED Bulb you are installing. Hope that helps 🙂

Thank you for sharing your experience! We are glad to hear that our video was helpful in your retrofit project 🙂

We have found from our experience that there tends to be shunted tombstones used in the majority of fluorescent fixtures due to the nature of how the power flows through the fluorescent tubes regardless of the ballast type. In this video we are using Dual end powered LED T8 Tubes. Not to be confused with Single end powered LED T8 tubes which require a different wiring all together. I will just focus on the Dual end. Dual end powered Type-B LED T8 tubes require the ballast to be bypassed / removed as each tube has its own LED driver to regulate the power to the LEDs in the tube. Dual end powered Type-A LED T8 tubes require the ballast to remain to proved power to these type of LED tubes. Dual end powered Type-C tubes requires the replacement of the fluorescent ballast with a LED driver. So the type of tombstones doesn't necessarily define what Type of LED T8 tube is required but more importantly how the LED tube type will need power. So its important to know what type of tube you are using and if it is single or dual end powered. All our EZ LED T8 kits we sell are dual end powered. Hope this helps 🙂

You can find our Slim line LED recessed trims that should meet your needs here: www.totalrecessedlighting.com/led-recessed-lighting/led-canless-designer-recessed-lighting.html - Hope that helps 🙂